Cleo by Panache - Rihanna

It is is no secret that I am a huge advocate of not only well fitting, but gorgeous, underwear.  As a trained bra-fitter, I am extremely passionate about ensuring that all woman have the option to wear bras that not only fit them like a glove but are pretty too, no matter what size they are.

I have shouted about how to ensure you are wearing the right size and also highlighted a great bra from Marks and Spencer but now it is the turn of Panache to be thrown into the spotlight...

I first became aware of Panache when I was working for House of Fraser in the lingerie department in 2008.  I recognised them as a brand that desired to serve women with fuller bust and for me, that is always a great thing!  They dropped off the radar a little but then in the Summer of 2009, they launched Cleo.  A sister brand that has an aim to provide fashionable and vibrant trend-led designs in sizes D-J cups that, maybe most importantly, start from a 28 back.

As a girl with a larger-than-average cup size, I jumped at the chance to try out one of their styles and I have to say, I am seriously impressed.

Style and Cut

I was sent the Rihanna set and although on first impressions I felt the pattern was a bit out there for me, the actual cut of the bra more than makes up for it.

It is a classic balconette shape - wide set straps, a deep centre piece and an uplift that provide a classic rounded shape, rather than an statement deep cleavage.  This is my personal favourite style as it gives you a great shape without being overly obvious which when you have large breasts, is a great option.

Fit

I requested a 32FF which is my standard size in popular brands such as Freya and Fantastie.  I am pleased to report that this fits absolutely perfectly and is very true to size.  This, is my mind, is a sign of a great company who are focused on ensuring their bras fit to industry standard.  This is where companies such as La Senza fall down in my mind as the larger breast size is not their main priority.

Comfort

This is perhaps the most important factor and one I have to say that the Rihanna bra delivers on.  After a 12 hour stint, I am pleased to report no digging in or rubbing of wires and the bra was a dream to wear.  It kept me supported and comfortable whilst giving a great shape at the same time.

To sum it all up, I am truly impressed with this bra.  With a larger cup size, it is so important to wear well fitting and comfortable underwear and Cleo really delivers the goods.  I have definitely got my eye on a few more designs and it is safe to say, Cleo and Panache are back on my radar for good!

Have you tried any underwear from Cleo or Panache?  Do you have trouble finding great bras that fit well or have any questions on sizing?  Let me know!

xxx 

Panache Sports Bra (30H) Review

Having been won over by all the hype about the new Panache Sports Bra, I really wanted to try it for myself. Panache bras often work best for me, and I had really high hopes for this one. It ended up failing on me, but only because of sizing.

For the past few years, I’ve been wearing an ungainly combination of two underwire bras (one too small, covered with one that is too big) with another too-small non-wired compression bra on top when I run or exercise. As annoying as it is to wear three bras, the results are stellar—I get absolutely no boob motion at all. This is thanks to the legendary compression of the “Frog bra” from Title Nine. I think for women with smaller boobs, the Frog bra might be the ultimate end of the search for a great sports bra. It’s not being made any more, but if you check out the product page youcan see how beloved it was! And for those with medium-sized boobs (D-G) the Frog bra would still work great with an underwired bra underneath. But I was hoping to break free from the necessity of wearing multiple bras to exercise, so I thought the Panache might be the best option because it’s underwired but doesn’t have the pointy shape of the underwired Freya Active.

The Panache Sports bra is available on many sites (Amazon, Figleaves, Nordstrom, Bare Necessities, HerRoom, etc) but is pretty expensive and doesn’t seem likely to go on sale anytime soon. So I waited around for when Figleaves had a promotion code and used that to get 20% off. For anyone on a budget, I would recommend keeping an eye out for a similar voucher code to make the price a LITTLE more reasonable.

I certainly wasn’t disappointed with the appearance or shape. I got the bra in a 30H (the largest cup size available) and the shape was really amazing. I would have no problem wearing this bra out in public, even to do things other than exercising, since my boobs looked so rounded in it. Since I am usually very embarrassed by the thought of people seeing me exercise, having a bra that gives a good shape is a really big help to get me out there.

The bra itself is also really cute—it doesn’t look at all like a boulder-holder and the construction isn’t visible from the front, but covered with fabric so it looks more like a sports top than the D+ engineering marvel that it is.

Unfortunately, despite how good it looked, the bra didn’t deliver. I didn’t get any more support than I do in a normal bra and there was loads of bounce going on even just jumping up and down in my bathroom.

The bra includes clips on the backs of the straps to connect them into a racerback shape. When I clipped them together, it did help eliminate a little more bounce, but there was still far too much motion for me to be able to run in the bra. I also found it was extremely difficult to clip and un-clip the racerback attachment. One of the things I look for in a sports bra is ease of removal—when I’ve just arrived home all sweaty after a run, the last thing I want to do is wrestle with my bra to get myself out of it. So the racerback clips just didn’t do it for me.  

Now, I don’t want to give the impression that this bra doesn’t work. You might remember that although my underbust measures 28”around, I choose to wear a 30 band rather than a 28 for greater comfort andequal support. Unfortunately, the Panache Sports Bra doesn’t allow for me to size up in this way. When I pulled the band tighter behind me and then jumped, the bounce was completely gone. So if this bra came in a 28HH, it would be amazing and ideal! Unfortunately the cups don’t go up that high, but for those who do fit in the size range, I think this bra could do the job. Just keep in mind that if your underbust measures 28”, you’ll NEED a 28 band in this bra to get the proper support and encapsulation to stop the bounce. I hope to see Panache expand the size range of this bra because it has so much potential, and is not really a bra that you can wear in a “sister size”--it is perfect only in a band size that matches your underbust measurement. You don't need to size down, as it doesn't run big--you just need to wear the exact right size. 

My next post will talk about the success I had with a different sports bra! 

What Does Panache Have to Offer? (Brand Overview)

I had a really great response to my overview of the different types of bras Freya offers, so I want to move next to another major brand, and my personal favorite, Panache. I’ll also talk about Panache’s Cleo line because since they’re made by the same people, there are a lot of similarities that you may find useful.

In my overview of Freya I wrote that their bras are easy-to-wear and a good “starter brand”. In my experience, Panache is a bit trickier to crack as a brand. When I was just starting out with well-fitted bras, my sister and I used to call Panache the “false friend” because their bras often seemed perfect in a dressing room, but became problematic with wear--rubbing, slipping, cutting in. I've since realized that this is mainly due to the fact that I didn't know how to fix small problems with bras, or needed a different size in some styles than in others. I wear different sizes in different Panache bras, I alter many of my Panache and Cleo bras to get a better fit, and some of the shapes I can’t wear at all even if they do come in my size. Generally speaking, Panache’s different styles have a lot more variation in cup design, seam location, etc than you’ll see in Freya. This means that some styles will work for a certain shape while some won’t. But fortunately, it also means that if one Panache shape didn’t work for you, others probably will. My goal here is to try to show which styles are similar and whom they might work for. In my opinion, buying Panache bras requires a bit more savvy and/or experience, but I also think it is definitely worth it as the results are stellar when it works out. Now that I've figured out what works for me in Panache, they are typically the brand that suits me best. 

To start off, one of Panache’s most classic styles is the Tango balconette. There are two basic manifestations, the Tango Classic, which comes in continuity colors, and the Tango II, which has a leaf pattern and has come in many colors over the years.

Tango Classic Balconette

Tango II Balconette

Although these bras are referred to as balconettes, the seam pattern is closer to what is traditionally used in a full-cup bra. It has two lower sections and an upper section that connects to the strap, like this: 

On most balconettes, the outer bottom section also connects to the strap, like this:

Because of the full-cup-esque construction, I personally find that I don’t get as much uplift as I would like in the Tango bras and the shape is a bit triangular from the side. The fabric is also fairly stiff so a poor fit can be very noticeable. However, this bra is also very popular and a favorite among loads of people I have talked to, so it is worth trying on if you can find it in a shop, or sold online with the possibility of returns.

Both Tango bras also come in plunge versions. 

These are more a staple than a va-va-voom type plunge, as they tend to minimize the amount of cleavage shown. If you naturally have close-set boobs and/or lots of cleavage, you might find that these bras work against your shape. I personally find the shape I get in the Tango plunge to be very similar to what I get in the Tango balconette—a bit triangular as it pushes the upper part of my boobs down. The Tango is not ideal for full-on-top boobs. But again, I think this is a bra that is worth trying if you have reasonable access to it. The Erin plunge also has a similar shape, as well as the new Eden:

Erin

Eden

A lot of the bras Panache makes are full-cup bras such as the Melody full-cup, Ariza, Eliza (marketed as a balconette but constructed like a full-cup), Carmel, Fern, Paloma, Elsa, Loretta, and the discontinued but still widely available Harmony full-cup. 

Melody Full-cup

Ariza

Eliza

Carmel

Fern

Harmony full-cup

Again, these bras have the seam pattern I described with respect to the Tango balconette—the bottom section does not come up to meet the strap, so there is not as much lift from the bottom. The shape you’ll get from these bras is therefore a bit more “natural” looking and relaxed. I’m personally not a huge fan of full-cup bras in general because I like to have my boobs closer to my body and full-cup bras don’t hold them in as much. However, they are very supportive (support and lift are not precisely the same thing) and tend not to allow much cleavage to show, so they can be practical for work, etc.

Panache also makes some full-cup bras that have a side support panel included, like the Andorra and the Emily (which is marketed as a balconette). 

Andorra

Emily

These bras give the support of a full-cup bra but with more lift and generally a more compact shape. I haven’t tried the Emily, which is a newer style, but I can vouch for the Andorra. It’s made with very soft lace and gives a good shape—not as rounded as a balconette shape, but in between that and the more relaxed shape most people get in a full-cup bra. I would highly recommend the Andorra for people looking for a full-cup bra.

My favorite style of Panache bra is their bras with a true balconette shape, including the Harmony, Confetti, Melody, and Sienna. 

Harmony balconette

Confetti

Melody balconette

Sienna

You can identify these bras by the outer bottom section that comes up to meet the strap--this shape:

This allows for more uplift and a wonderful round shape. They are fairly low-cut and very open on top so they are perfectly suited to full-on-top boobs. Those with a full-on-bottom shape might need to size down to avoid gapping in the top of the cup. These bras are the Panache equivalent of the balconette construction that the majority of Freya bras have, but Panache bras are much more delicate-looking in the larger sizes and cover far less skin. I refer again to the comparison of my 28J Freya Clarissa and 28J Panache Confetti.

Left, Freya Clarissa; Right, Panache Confetti

I love both bras but I think this image says a lot about the differences between the two companies. I wish Panache would make more bras with this construction because they do it as well or better than anyone else.

Finally, Panache makes molded T-shirt bras such as the Porcelain, which comes in a plunge version up to H cups and a regular version up to G cup. 

Porcelain

Porcelain plunge

Both come in black, white, and nude, as well as occasional colored manifestations and some that have lace, but unfortunately I’ve never tried them on. There is a strapless version as well. The Porcelain also comes in the slightly more decorative "Viva" version:

Porcelain Viva

As you can see, Panache makes a lot of bras that are practical and sensible, so if you are looking for something a bit more wild and exciting, look to Cleo. Cleo is a really great line that makes a lot of excellent bras. My one major dislike is that all the Cleo bras have just two hooks in back, even in the high cup sizes, whereas many of the Panache bras have three, which I would prefer. Cleo bras also only go up to J cup (and some don’t make it that high) unlike some Panache bras that go up to K cup; however, most Cleo bras do come in 28 bands.

Many Cleo bras are made with a similar construction to the true balconettes I mentioned above (Panache’s Harmony, Confetti, Melody, Sienna). These include Brooke, Eleanor, Bonnie, Frances, Chloe, and the upcoming Marcie. There are small differences between the fits of these bras but in general they give a very round shape, and like the similar Panache bras they are low-cut and open on top, hence perfect for full-on-top boobs.

Brooke

Eleanor

Bonnie

Frances

Chloe

Marcie

The Lucy (my favorite bra) is very similar to these bras.

Lucy

It has a slightly tighter upper section, so full-on-tops might experience slight cutting in (I counter this by taking in the center gore, which turns the cups so there is more space at the top).

The older George and Lizzie bras are also a fairly similar shape, but with more space at the apex, so I find the shape they give has more projection but isn’t quite as round.

George

Lizzie

Cleo bras with this shape are distinguishable by the extra fabric that continues under the cups in the middle.

Another slightly different Cleo shape is found in the Sasha and Alexa bras. The cups are constructed similarly to the above balconettes, but like the George and Lizzie they have a continuation of the band underneath the cups in front, where most Cleo balconettes just have the cups connected to the gore and to the band on the sides. This is actually a really great feature, because it stops the underwires from warping with the stretch of the band and makes bras a bit more heavy-duty and well-made.

Sasha

Alexa

I’ve unfortunately never tried these bras, but both have received rave reviews from those who have. I was initially worried that the lace across the top might cut in on my full-on-top boobs, but the feedback I’ve heard from those who have tried it is that it actually suits that shape well, while those who have less volume in the top might experience a bit of gapping. I find myself wondering if the upcoming red Marcie bra I pictured above might also belong in this category, as like these bras it has the section under the cups that prevents the wires from warping. I'll have to try them all out before I'll know for sure.

Another strong offering from Cleo is their two-section padded bras, the Juna, Sadie, Sadie longline, Rita, Poppy, Martha, Ellie, and the upcoming Darcy.

Juna

Sadie

Sadie longline

Rita

Poppy

Martha

Ellie

Darcy

These bras only go up to H cup but are a great option for those who fit them. The shape, in my opinion, is fairly similar to the unpadded balconettes with a lot of openness at the top so they are forgiving for full-on-top boobs, but also wearable for most other shapes. Lots of people seem to get on well with these bras. One annoying issue is that the lace tends to poke outwards rather than lying flat, but this will disappear under fitted clothes.

Cleo also offers a smooth, non-sectioned plunge bra called the Jude, which I’ve never tried due to its smaller size range. 

Just from the what I can see of the shape in this photo, I feel as though it might not work for my full-on-top shape, but who knows?

Similarly, I haven’t tried out Cleo’s seamed padded plunge bras, like the Molly, Penny, Sally, Billie, and Toni, either.  

Molly

Penny

Sally

Billie

Toni

The wires on Panache and Cleo bras tend to be fairly wide, particularly on the unpadded styles. If you don’t like wide underwires, you will want to either try bending the wires for comfort, or skip these bras altogether. Panache bras also tend to have wider center gores than Freya or Curvy Kate bras. This is good for wider-set boobs, but those with close-set boobs may want to perform this easy alteration to pull the cups closer together.  I find the bands run fairly similar to Freya bands, and between Freya and Panache/Cleo balconettes the cup sizing is often rather similar as well (personally, I usually find I am somewhere in between a 28HH and 28J, or between a 30H and 30HH, in both brands). Panache bras nearly always have thinner straps than Freya balconettes (especially the older ones) in high cup sizes, which is something that I am really grateful for. Panache bras also tend to be a bit cheaper than other brands at full price, and Cleo bras even more so, which is definitely an appealing prospect!