Cleo "Rihanna" Review

I’m not really in the market to buy anymore bras right now because I already have so many—in fact, I’m probably going to be looking to sell the ones I don’t often wear. But there was one bra that, when I saw it was finally available, I wasn’t going to miss out on. That’s the Cleo Rihanna.

This mystery bra has popped up in a few places (like Undercover Lingerista's post here) but I never heard much about it and I was beginning to think that it wasn’t going to be produced at all. Then I saw it was available at Breakout Bras, although apparently nowhere else, but unfortunately the price was way beyond my price range. More recently, the Rihanna has finally started appearing for sale in a few more places, including Amazon.co.uk and eBay, where I found mine. They all seem to be on sale now so I’m not sure where/when/if the Rihanna was posted for normal sale.

Because this bra is the same as the Sadie (reviewed here)and Jude (sixth bra down in this post), I got my normal size for this brand and cut—30H. (I wear 30HH in Curvy Kate and either 30HH or 30H in most Freya and Panache, though I fit a 30GG Deco, and a 30H in most Cleo bras.)

I just love this bra. It’s such an unusual color combination and pattern. I’d wanted a bra from the Jude family for ages but I was holding out for something I was really in love with. I wasn’t a fan of the orange color of the Sadie…

...I don't like the combination of blue and pink, found in the Ellie...

…and I’m sick to death of floral patterns as found in the Poppy, etc.

But the Rihanna has this weird, awesome pattern that isn’t like anything else I’ve seen. It’s somewhere in between a 'tribal' pattern, a geometric pattern, and a watercolor design. It’s definitely eye-catching, and I like the refreshing color combination.

The shape from the side is the same shape you saw in my Sadie and Jude reviews. Round but a bit low, relaxed and casual. It’s definitely not the best shape out there but it’s the furthest you can get from pointy. In some clothes this bra makes my boobs look bigger, but in most, it makes them look smaller because the apex of the cup is close to the chest (it doesn’t have much depth). This is bad for people who need a lot of depth in the cup, great for people who want a round shape without much forward projection.

You can also see that the underwires are pretty narrow and are coming close to sitting on my breast tissue. I actually wish they were wider, but I know I’m firmly in the minority on this point and most people prefer narrower underwires.

The center gore sits SUPER FLAT on my chest. What a relief! I’ve found a lot of vertical-seam bras, especially Curvy Kate’s Showgirl bras that I wrote about here, just never really sit flat in the gore, so they feel as though they are constantly floating around and slipping. This bra sits firmly in the same place for hours.

This bra has the same vertical seam pattern I was talking about in my post about the Masquerade Delphi. As usual, this seam pattern brings with it a lot of open space in the top of the cup. This is great for those with full-on-top boobs and can be awkward for those without a lot of volume in the top because there can be some gaping or a “collapsed” shape above where the cup ends.

All these points add up to a bra that’s perfect for some shapes and best avoided for others. But if you do fall into this bra’s target shape, I’d recommend the Rihanna. It’s so weird and cute that it really gives my mood a boost every time I put it on. It’s a much better fit for me than the Curvy Kate Showgirl bras that I have to constantly keep readjusting and so, in a lot of ways, the Rihanna accomplishes what the Showgirl bras can’t.

Cleo by Panache - Rihanna

It is is no secret that I am a huge advocate of not only well fitting, but gorgeous, underwear.  As a trained bra-fitter, I am extremely passionate about ensuring that all woman have the option to wear bras that not only fit them like a glove but are pretty too, no matter what size they are.

I have shouted about how to ensure you are wearing the right size and also highlighted a great bra from Marks and Spencer but now it is the turn of Panache to be thrown into the spotlight...

I first became aware of Panache when I was working for House of Fraser in the lingerie department in 2008.  I recognised them as a brand that desired to serve women with fuller bust and for me, that is always a great thing!  They dropped off the radar a little but then in the Summer of 2009, they launched Cleo.  A sister brand that has an aim to provide fashionable and vibrant trend-led designs in sizes D-J cups that, maybe most importantly, start from a 28 back.

As a girl with a larger-than-average cup size, I jumped at the chance to try out one of their styles and I have to say, I am seriously impressed.

Style and Cut

I was sent the Rihanna set and although on first impressions I felt the pattern was a bit out there for me, the actual cut of the bra more than makes up for it.

It is a classic balconette shape - wide set straps, a deep centre piece and an uplift that provide a classic rounded shape, rather than an statement deep cleavage.  This is my personal favourite style as it gives you a great shape without being overly obvious which when you have large breasts, is a great option.

Fit

I requested a 32FF which is my standard size in popular brands such as Freya and Fantastie.  I am pleased to report that this fits absolutely perfectly and is very true to size.  This, is my mind, is a sign of a great company who are focused on ensuring their bras fit to industry standard.  This is where companies such as La Senza fall down in my mind as the larger breast size is not their main priority.

Comfort

This is perhaps the most important factor and one I have to say that the Rihanna bra delivers on.  After a 12 hour stint, I am pleased to report no digging in or rubbing of wires and the bra was a dream to wear.  It kept me supported and comfortable whilst giving a great shape at the same time.

To sum it all up, I am truly impressed with this bra.  With a larger cup size, it is so important to wear well fitting and comfortable underwear and Cleo really delivers the goods.  I have definitely got my eye on a few more designs and it is safe to say, Cleo and Panache are back on my radar for good!

Have you tried any underwear from Cleo or Panache?  Do you have trouble finding great bras that fit well or have any questions on sizing?  Let me know!

xxx 

Cleo "Molly" and "Sally" Reviews

I’m not the world’s hugest fan of plunge bras. I don’t have extremely close-set boobs (those who do often find they need plunge bras, because a higher gore can’t sit on their chest without sitting on breast tissue) but I do tend to get a lot of cleavage even in styles that are meant to be modest. So plunge bras can leave me feeling a bit exposed—I hardly ever wear my Freya Deco.

But I do love polka dots! So I became interested in the Cleo Molly when I started wearing 30 bands and noticed that it went up to H cup.

I found this bra on Figleaves in the outlet section for a good price so I decided to try it in 30H. I was taking a bit of a risk because I couldn’t find any reviews online other than one review on Bratabase where the reviewer said it was a horrible fit on her bottom-heavy boobs but would be better on top-heavy boobs. That’s me, so I went for it.

I have to say I was really pleasantly surprised by the fit of the Molly. The center gore sits against my chest and the cups are perfect for me. They are very open on top, so it did end up being good for my shape—it gave good support from the bottom and didn’t cover me where I don’t want coverage.

The band feels pretty average to me for a 30. (The bratabase reviewer felt that it was loose.) It is comparable to my other Panache and Cleo bras in the same size. It only has two hooks though, and has a slight angle that makes it sit as though it was riding up rather than horizontal or low, so these factors lessen the stability of the band.

As for the shape—well, from a direct side-on view the shape is quite strange.

But then, from a half-profile, it looks pretty normal.

I think the odd shape in the side-on view comes from the fact that it’s a foam bra but also a seamed one made in three sections. So the foam makes a slight corner at the seams and it ends up looking very “bra-shaped” as opposed to “boob-shaped”. Fortunately, I found that this disappears under tight, stretchy clothes (especially if you wear two layers, as I always do)—the stretchy fabric sort of evens out the shape all over and it ends up being a pretty good shape.

I don’t have a huge amount of experience with plunge bras—this is my only one—so I’m not sure how much support they typically give. But I can say I definitely would not wear the Molly to go on a brisk walk. It is fine for a day of going to class, sitting at a desk, grocery shopping, going to a party, etc. It just isn’t very good at supporting the boobs from all angles because, hey, it’s really only supporting them from the bottom. So although it gives great lift, it doesn’t give perfect support and there is that weird feeling of bouncing inside your bra if you try to walk fast or climb a mountain or engage in energetic dancing (the non-fully-adjustable straps also don’t help with this). I’m guessing this is pretty normal for a plunge bra, though.

Encouraged by my success with the Molly, I decided to try another Cleo plunge bra that looked like it had similar construction, the Sally.

I had always found the Cleo Sally to be fascinating—I liked the colors and there are not that many plunges that go up to H cup, but the only reviews it had gotten were terrible, and there were not many reviews. I finally accepted the fact that I was going to wonder about it forever unless I tried it (sometimes you just have to accept that this is true). I found it for sale on eBay from a company that has an eBay store. It is also available on Brastop and Bravissimo at sale prices.

I got the Sally in a 30H, the same size I fit perfectly in the Molly. As you can see, it was a dismal failure:

The Sally was simply smaller than the Molly, at least a cup size smaller. The center gore actually did still sit on my chest, but the cups were hardly covering my boobs and forcing them down and smashing them. I think it has more to do with size than shape, although the shape is somewhat different. The Sally has a lower center gore and lacks the extra band under the cups in front. It is also less friendly to full-on-top boobs--the upper section seemed a bit tighter than I would have wanted relative to the rest of the bra, even in a bigger size. I think this bra would be a better fit on someone with an even shape that doesn't have a big difference in fullness between the top and the bottom, or for someone with full-on-bottom boobs if they sized up. I also think it would probably work better on wider-set boobs. 

I did find the bra attractive, though. Here are a few closer-up shots:

A lot of the negative reviews I had read basically just said “meh” or that people found the bra looked and felt cheap and tacky. I didn’t really find this to be true, it was comparable quality to many other bras I have tried and I think it’s quite cute. I just would have needed a 30HH or 30J in this bra, neither of which exists. I knew there wasn’t going to be any way to salvage a bra that was this small on me, so I simply returned it.

Cleo "Bonnie" Review

Due to my love of Cleo bras, I was always curious to try the Bonnie because I suspected from the seam pattern that it would be a great fit on me and give a great shape, similar to my beloved Cleo Lucy and Brooke and Panache Sienna. I hesitated to order it, though, because I have to be frank and say that I just hate this colorway:

I can totally understand why people would like it, but personally I really dislike pastels, especially when it’s three pastels combined together (blue, pink, and yellow), so the whole look makes me grimace. It sort of reminds me of an Easter basket explosion (so I guess it’s appropriate to write this review coming off the Easter holiday weekend!).

I should note that the Cleo Bonnie also comes in this colorway that appeals to me much more:

But, the pale blue and yellow was the one that happened to pop up on eBay at a low price at the very moment my curiosity got the better of me, so that’s the one I ended up with.

In person, the bra is actually a lot more beautiful than I expected from online photos. There is a lot of nice detailing in the stitching and the colors do give it a light, airy look—basically, it was more subtle than I imagined.

But, though I was happier than I expected with the colors, I was less happy than I expected with the shape. The Bonnie is higher cut than the Cleo’s Brooke/Frances/Lucy bras, and covers more of my chest. It’s also not as open at the top as the Frances or Brooke—there isn’t as much space there, similar to the top section of the Lucy. However, the top section of the Lucy curves back in with a very round emphasis as it has a bit of stretch—it’s only the very top edge that is tight. On the Bonnie, the upper section has no stretch at all due to the yellow sunburst stitching, so it sits much more flat. When I look down at myself, it creates a sort of flat plane across the area where my cleavage would be, which is something that often happens to me in Freya bras. It doesn’t make much difference to the shape from any vantage point other than my own (looking down at myself), but it is something that annoys me a little. I did find that taking in the center gore helped with that flat look and it also helped pull the underwires out of my armpits a bit, as they are very wide. Here’s the look with the center gore taken in:

You may notice that between this photo and the last, the bow has gone missing. It had gotten a little askew and I tugged on it too enthusiastically to straighten it, and not only did it fall off but it actually separated into two pieces, as it’s not a “true bow” but two pieces stitched together. I haven’t managed to sew the bow back on yet, but I will definitely do so eventually because I think the bra looks kind of stupid without it.  

Now, on to the sizing. The back is looser than other 28 bands in Cleo, so it may not be the best bet for small 28s. It's fine for me though, because I'm more on the edge between 28 and 30 (and actually I've started comfortably wearing 30 bands in certain bras). 

As for the sizing of the cups, I can normally wear either a 28HH or a 28J in Cleo, and I chose to order a 28J in the Bonnie. The fit is good, but the wires are a bit too wide for me, and as you can see from this side photo, I don’t get the best lift:

I think this is definitely a fault of my choice to buy the bigger of the two sizes I normally wear rather than the fault of the bra itself. I say that because the shape looks almost exactly like the side view of my 28J Lucy…

…which doesn’t give nearly as much lift compared to my 28HH Lucy:

Because of the similarity to the bigger Lucy, I’m convinced that I should have gotten the 28HH in this bra, and that if I had, I would have gotten a lot more lift. However, if I’d done so, I would need to take in the center gore (to turn the cups and make them more open on top) a lot more to deal with the tight, non-stretchy upper section.

Now for some of the good points of this bra. First off, I LOVE the straps. They are relatively thin in appearance, and they are very soft and padded underneath with a material that feels almost like fleece. They are by far the nicest bra straps I've ever encountered. Unfortunately, due to the fleecy lining I think it would be very difficult to adjust these straps past halfway--so for those who really need fully adjustable straps, this isn't going to be a great option.

Despite the fact that I didn't feel as uplifted in this bra as I do in some bras, the shape is still really superb from the side. I find it looks quite subtle under a shirt, downplaying rather than maximizing my assets, which is what I look for.

You can also see in the above photo how the tight top section is pressing down on my shape a bit even in the bigger size, and how I'm getting a shade of quadraboob--not enough to ruin the look in my opinion but it is there. 

It might sound like I had pretty mixed feelings about this bra, but ultimately, I feel positive toward it. It’s a good bra. It’s not the BEST Cleo bra for my full-on-top shape, but it’s workable, and I think it might actually be a good compromise—those whose boobs are fuller on the bottom might like this bra more than the Brooke/Frances because there would be less risk of gapping as the upper section is tighter. It’s probably not going to be the best bra ever for those with more extreme shapes (really full on top or really full on the bottom) but I think it can still work for them, and I think it will work quite nicely for those with a shape somewhere in the middle. I still think the pink colorway is a lot prettier, though. Next time I'll get the pink Bonnie, and in the smaller of my two sizes!

Cleo "Brooke" Review

Once again, this is an older bra that isn’t being produced anymore, but I consider it one of the “oldie but goodies”, so I’m doing a review to help anyone who is considering picking up the Cleo Brooke on sale or on eBay.

I find this bra very similar in shape to Panache’s Sienna and Confetti bras, and Cleo’s Frances. It’s very open on top, which is perfect for my full-on-top boobs. I wear a 28J in this bra, which is a good fit but a tiny bit roomy; I could potentially also fit a 28HH because it is so open at the part where I have the most volume.

The shape from the side is stellar, placing this in the short-list for Best Bra Ever in terms of how it looks under clothes. I also think it’s cute without clothes, especially the bow in the middle of the cups.

I also like the fact that the color and fabric (mesh) are the same all over--I find that sheer or color-blocked upper sections can often be unflattering in higher cup sizes. 

To get to the bad points, though, this bra suffers from a few annoying problems. The straps are only half adjustable—not a problem for me as I have pretty average-height shoulders, but for anyone petite who normally needs to shorten straps a lot, this one is a miss. The back band has only 2 hooks rather than 3, which I find annoying, but which I know can be a plus for those preferring the more delicate appearance of a thinner band. My final annoyance with the Brooke is that it’s been VERY difficult to break in. I know, from my experience with my Lucy, that once Cleo bras soften up they are very comfy, but it can be a long road to get to that point. Right now, my Brooke feels very rough in the center of the underwires, even though I bent it to fit my body like I do with all my bras.  It’s a bit of a vicious cycle—because it’s not broken in yet, I don’t often wear it, but because I don’t often wear it, it’s not broken in yet. Hopefully I can get past the discomfort at some point. A brand-new Brooke is not for the faint of heart—or at least requires the purchase of some Band-Aids for the first five wears.

Bras I Want: In Which I Am Not Bitter

I spend a lot of time being annoyed at small size ranges, poor bra construction, and boring design. But there are a few bras in upcoming collections that I’ve been drooling over since the photos came out, so I figured I should share the lust. I’m feeling optimistic today!

Cleo Lucy in Yellow (Spring/Summer 2012)

A YELLOW bra all the way up to a J cup! 

I hadn’t realized that people of any size were wearing yellow bras, but that is exactly why I love the fact that this exists. I always say that as soon as someone starts making J-cup bras with sequins on them, we’ll know we’re really getting somewhere… This vivid shade is nearly that. YAY for random colors! Down with only making big bras in black, white, pink, and nude! I don’t even like yellow all that much but you can bet that I am going to buy one of these just for the sheer hedonism of it.

Curvy Kate Tease Me in Cherry/Blush (Autumn/Winter 2012)

Anything in a colorway called “Cherry/Blush” is bound to be made of sexy. Seriously, just say it aloud. Now look at this bra. 

I want it. I need it. I have to have it.

Curvy Kate Entice (Autumn/Winter 2012)

Curvy Kate is just killing it with these awesome, awesome upcoming styles! Look at this! 

This is what I want! And look how the strap has that wider section connecting to the cup! That is brilliant and will give such a nice shape to the cup by spreading out the tension from the strap! I am way too excited!

Curvy Kate Wild (Autumn/Winter 2012)

I don’t actually want this (my boobs tremble with fear at the thought of most deep plunge bras), I just think it’s cool-looking. I’m pretty sure we can all agree that this is cool-looking. I assume everyone who likes plunges is going to buy 12 of this bra on the day it comes out. You go, ladies!

Curvy Kate Smoothie (Autumn/Winter 2012)

The heralded molded bra “up to a J cup” which really only goes up to a J cup in 2 band sizes—for once, I am actually in that size range, though barely. I’m bummed they didn’t make this in more sizes. 

But I’m PSYCHED that they made it in a weird leopard/cheetah print for their very first go! Down with basics! I’ll definitely buy this just to see what it’s like. (Seriously, though, they’ve got to expand the size range for this one in future seasons.)

Curvy Kate Fleurty (Spring/Summer 2012)

This bra, which looks to be the same shape as the Tease Me/Thrill Me, is coming out a bit sooner than these other Curvy Kate bras—just in March! WHOOO! 

I have wanted this bra for what feels like my whole life. I love the colors. I love the sheer overlay. I love it. I will have it. And look at the color for the next season! I think I’ll take that too!

I hope you enjoyed my moment of glee. Photos are from Cleo’s website and Curvy Kate’s Autumn/Winter 2012 catalogue. 

Cleo "Frances" Review

I got a comment the other day asking about the fit of Cleo’s Frances bra. This bra isn’t current-season, but there are still plenty of them floating around out there so I figured doing a full review would be helpful for the person who commented and hopefully for others too. If there’s a bra I’ve mentioned that you’d like more information on, mention it in the comments—I will do a review if I can!

It is not too full-coverage from the front, and I even get a nice separated but visible cleavage.

My Frances is actually a size 30GG, since I bought it a couple of years ago when that was my size. I wear a 28J in most bras now, but I think I could wear a 28HH in the Frances. It's very open on top, like Panache’s Confetti and Harmony bras. So if your boobs are full on top, you may be able to size down because the bra doesn’t go up high enough to have to deal with that full part. If your boobs are more full on the bottom, or if you don’t want to worry at all about it being too small, I’d stick to your normal size.

The shape is nice and round--similar to the shape I get in Panache Confetti and Cleo Brooke and Lucy. There is one problem, a slight indentation near the top edge of the bra, which you can see in this photo: 

I think it would be less visible in a big enough cup size--I never noticed the indentation when my Frances was the correct size for me. When it comes down to it I think this is just a strange incarnation of quadraboob from a too-small cup, and would be corrected with a size or two up. 

I personally think the Frances is very pretty with its floral details. My boyfriend, however, once casually described this bra's pattern as “baby vomit.” Perhaps other people’s partners would be less petulant, but I’d say this is a bra to buy for you, not for your significant other.

My dislikes with this bra include the two-hook fastening (I personally prefer three) and the straps. The straps are nice and a good medium width, but are made of a firm double layer which tends to bunch up in the front. This can cause a little pinching throughout the day. They are also unfortunately only partially adjustable. I don’t think of this as a bra with especially long straps, but for those who struggle with straps that are too long, these straps can be shortened to a length of 11 inches, for reference.

Since this bra is too small for me now, I don’t wear it much, but I keep it around for one surprising function it serves—under white shirts, it works like a nude bra for my skin tone. I never expected this, because after all, it’s purple, and patterned. But I think something about the subtleness of the colors makes it just blend in.

Overall I think this a pretty nice bra. I bought it in a shop (the wonderful Zoe and Co., happiest place on earth, in Concord, New Hampshire) and my fitter told me that it was a popular bra and that a lot of people were getting a great fit in it, so I think it must also be relatively versatile.

Cleo "Sadie" Longline Review

The Cleo Sadie Longline has recently become available on Brastop.com and Amazon.co.uk at discounted prices so I thought I’d give it a whirl. I like the idea of a longline bra because it has more hooks, which helps prevent awkward lines under clothing. It also provides more overall support because there is more substance to the band, which is good for avoiding back pain.

Although the Sadie Longline actually comes in a 28 band, it only goes up to an H cup, so since I normally wear a 28HH or 28J, I decided to try a 30H (equivalent of 28HH). I figured even if it didn’t fit it could be useful for a review.

The 30 band actually was a pretty good fit on me! But that’s NOT because the band runs small—it’s because of my ribs. My ribs are stubborn buggers and they stick out right underneath where a regular bra band hits. Therefore, since the longline goes down far enough to have to wrap around that part of me, a 30 band was actually an appropriate fit for me in this style. It looks a little loose in the photo, but that is only due to the top layer wrinkling very slightly over the inner layer of fabric. 

I’m not saying I wouldn’t have preferred a 28 band if the cups went high enough, but this worked pretty well. If your ribs bulge out right under your bra band and you’d need to size up in the band to get the right cup size, you might end up with a workable fit despite sizing up.

The cups were a good fit on me too—I usually find with low-cut half-cups that are fairly open at the top, I can wear a 28HH instead of my “normal” 28J. The 30H (as the equivalent of the 28HH) fell into this category. I think most people, though, would do best sticking with their normal cup size.

The padded cups are made with vertical seams, a construction I like because it gives great uplift and shape. Normally I’ve seen these cups made with three sections, but the Sadie (like Cleo’s Juna and Poppy bras) has just two. I think it works well and is a little less minimizing in front than the three-section cups I’ve tried.

Overall I was actually pretty impressed by this bra. It was a fairly easy, non-fussy fit which gave nice shape and support. The back band hardly cut in at all and streamlined my silhouette (my darn ribs often look a bit bulgy/lumpy in normal bras). I think the back would still be visible under a thin shirt, especially where it cuts in at the narrow point of my waist, but it would not show under a sweater, as too-thin bands can. I also love that it’s plaid and that the plaid is continued all over the cups, front of the straps, and band.

The only thing I hate about this bra is that it’s orange. I know loads of people who love and covet orange clothing, and particularly orange lingerie, but it’s just not my personal favorite. I don’t know how long the longline trend will last, but here’s hoping that Cleo will someday make this one in a different color—and hopefully a few more cup sizes!

In unrelated news, check out my "Fairy Bra Mother" letter at Hourglassy!